Back Vintages of Late Harvest Chenin Blanc

I was fortunate to try two back vintages of Herzog Late Harvest Chenin Blanc, side by side, at the Tierra Sur restaurant in Oxnard, CA. I had the 2004 and the 2005, which is one of my favorite dessert wines of all time. The colors are similar; both still a pale yellow, without any deep yellow or gold tones. But the noses are remarkably different: the 2004 is fresher and has massive aromas of fresh Fuji apple and some floral notes, while the 2005 is all honey with tropical fruit. I have had both of these wines before, but tasting them side by side helps one appreciate the importance of vintage, and the effect of time on the bottle. 2005 was a much hotter year in California, and while 2004 was a more even, successful vintage overall (especially for California Cabernet), this might not have been conducive to the over-ripening of the Chenin Blanc. Anyway, if you see these older bottles anywhere, grab them. And save some for me.

2004 Baron Herzog Late Harvest Chenin Blanc: still a pale yellow, fresh fruit notes, very pleasant but not overly sweet or sticky. Would pair nicely with a fruit tart or just fresh fruit with nuts and goat cheese. Very nice.

2005 Baron Herzog Late Harvest Chenin Blanc: this wine is also pale, but has powerful sweet aromas of honey, pineapple, and a little spice/funk (which could indicate botrytis, the Noble Rot). Rich, thick, and heavy, you have to respect this wine for its intensity. It would pair very nicely with almond tarts or rich double or triple cream Brie. Might even be able to stand up to some light chocolate desserts too.