Thursday, April 1, 2010

Congrats to Covenant and Psagot

Covenant from Napa Valley and Psagot from the Judean Hills have both been long time favorites of mine. They were each mentioned in major newspaper articles about kosher and Israeli wines. Congratulations to them both on the recognition! Links to the articles appear below.

On Psagot and other Judean Hills wine (Wall Street Journal)

On Covenant (New York Times)

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Review of Wines Tasted at the Internation Food and Wine Festival, Oxnard, CA

I was very excited to attend the 3rd annual Int'l Food and Wine Festival at the Herzog Winery in Oxnard, CA. This is pretty much a showcase for the Herzog wines and the various lines that Royal Wine imports for us into the US. Also, the restaurant located in the winery, Tierra Sur, puts out an amazing spread of fine kosher delicacies that are carefully crafted and painstakingly presented. That's really why people flock to this event. Let's be honest.

Anyway, as much as I tried to taste most of the wine that was there, I was not quite as successful as I thought I would be. The trade portion was a little crowded, and when the general public showed up, things were out of hand. One more issue was the smoke from the wood burning grill pouring into the tasting area. Forgive me if the notes have too many nuances of "smokiness" or "toasted oak." All in all, it was a fantastic and very impressive evening. It was also a pleasure to have met in person several acquaintances whom I had only spoken to on the internet.

Wines Tasted:

Binyamina:
I had a limited amount of these wines, since the ones I tried initially didn't do much for me. I think there are better values in white out there, and didn't get to the reds for the most part.
Binyamina Sauvignon Blanc: a very light wine with grassy overtones and flavors of peach and gooseberry.
Binyamina Unoaked Chardonnay: Fresh, intense flavor of lemons, almost overpowering.
Binyamina Oaked Chardonnay: Light oak flavors which tames but doesn't conquer the intense citrus flavors of lime and lemon. Nice and fresh though.
Binyamina "HaMaarah:" Didn't take any notes here. I wouldn't call it a memorable bottle, especially for the price.

Capcanes:
Special thanks to winery representative Gary L for the extra information and guidance during the tasting of these wines. Winemaker was also on hand, nice of him to shlep all the way from Spain. Quality stuff and to be taken seriously.
2005 Peraj Ha'Abib: Interesting aromas of earth and eastern spice. Still very tannic and perhaps a little harsh right now.
2007 Peraj Ha'Abib: Much stronger flavors than the 2005 and very dry as well. One for the cellar for sure.
2005 Peraj Ha'Abib from 1.5L Magnum: This wine was totally different from the same wine in 750ml format. Less tannic and much more elegant. How is that possible? I guess the wine must be benefiting from the slower pace of aging that takes place in the larger bottle. One of my favorites of the night.

Carmel
Again thanks to Gary for the detailed background and history of the winery and the numerous bottles that were presented. By the time I got here, I was only in the mood for a few tastes and asked for his suggestions.
2006 Old Vine Carignan: This wine is made from really old vines. The original winegrowers all thought it was cool to grow Mediterranean varietals, and to do so in great quantities. Then times changed, and everyone makes Cabernet Sauvignon. Well, this wine is a tribute to those days, and is excellent. Licorice flavors, but mostly dry, and an excellent mouthfeel.
2007 'Mediterranean:' The newest in the line of Limited Edition wine. Burgundian styled in terms of its delicate texture, but has some bolder flavors reminiscent of the Carignans of Corbrieres and Languedoc. An elegant "field blend." Ever had Stag's Leap Winery's "Ne Cede Malis?" It's like that, but kosher, and milder.
2006 (2007?) Sha'al Vineyard Late Harvest Gewurztraminer: Wow, spicy, zesty, syrupy sweet. Not much fruit and a lot of sugar. This is a sweetie.

Domaine du Castel:
Always a reliable performer, having been one of the first top flight performers on the high end wine scene. Presently probably a Israeli "First Growth," but these things don't last forever. The wine was good, but not as regal as it used to be, in my opinion.
2007 Blanc de Castel Chardonnay: I always had enjoyed the toastiness of Castel chard but didn't detect too much of that in this bottle. Rather light but still enjoyable. Much better than the 2006 which I thought was kind of an off year for them.
2006 Petit Castel: Could have told me this was the Grand Vin and I would have believed you. Medium bodied and with a pleasant herbal component that I associated with the Grand Vin as of my last tasting a few months ago. Very impressive improvement in this label.
2006 Grand Vin de Castel: Still has a medium-plus body but seems to have moved past the herbal and dill notes of my last tasting. A nice leather component as well. I'm not sure how long this will age but it certainly is very enjoyable now. A much more forward style of wine than say, the 2004, which was a beast upon release, or the 2005, which I didn't particularly like.

Covenant:
The winery I love to love, and with good reason. Someone had the guts to make expensive kosher wine out of Napa/Sonoma and they are doing a great job and should be supported. The wine is pricey, but when you take a look at what else is out there, I think it's a good value. Put it this way: you can spend twice as much on a Bordeaux that's made from the crap parcels and barrels, just so you can have the label (this is coming from a guy who just acquired a bottle of Lafon Rochet, oops). Or, you can spend the money on Covenant, which is a dedicated kosher establishment. Anyway, to the wines:
2008 Covenant Lavan Chardonnay: Made from grapes of a famous vineyard in Sonoma, this wine is toasty and reserved on the nose, has nectarine and citrus flavors on the palate, and has the most amazing finish. Such an intense, electric finish of citrus and pineapple. Wow. I thought it pretty much edged out the Castel Blanc for best kosher Chard, but let's see how things progress. A star in the making.
2007 Red C: Aromas of tar and dark fruit, this wine is surprisingly on the drier side and has a spicy/untamed finish. Not my thing, but plenty of people are head over heals for this one.
2007 Covenant: A nose that reaches out and slaps you in the face. The 2007 vintage was a notable one in Napa, and this wine certainly conveys that. Very tannic and full bodied, this wine is much more burly than other vintages that I have tasted (2004, 2006). The wine is fine to drink now, but will certainly hold on for years and years to come. Much better than any of the other $60-$80 kosher cabernets out there.

French Wines:
I spent most of my evening at this series of tables, trying to taste as many of these as possible. It was an enjoyable time tasting through the lineup with my friend Mr. KosherWineMusings and seeing who liked and disliked which wines. The clear winners and losers are easy to pick out, but the gray is where difference of opinions arise and discussion ensues. If everyone liked the same thing, we'd all be drinking one wine! Since I went through a lot of these wines quickly, the notes are pretty brief for some.

Whites/Rose/Dessert
Maltaverne Pouilly Fume: This is a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire. I didn't like it; weird chlorine notes and a little too much citrus.
Sancerre: Another Sauvignon Blanc. Interesting papaya elements but oh so thin on the palate, and not in the crisp, refreshing way. Producer unknown.
2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, L'ore de Line: Anise and honey notes, not so great, a little disappointing. But they have a monopoly on CDP-Blanc.
2008 Tavel Rose: This was a pleasant wine, bright strawbery flavors, drink now because it's not getting any better.
2003 Label Puligny-Montrachet Les Nosroyes: I don't like most of these Chardonnays at all. This one had a weird bleu cheese thing going on. I think that either it was a bad bottle or it was just past it. Disappointing to see the same vintages on the White Burgs as two years ago...
2006 Chateau Piada Sauternes: A lighter weight contender than the Guiraud but still great quality. Botrytis is certainly pleasant with honey aromas. Not a blockbuster, but enjoyable.
1999 Guiraud Sauternes: A wine that has seen its best days as far as I'm concerned. Dark, toffee and candied pineapple, but quieter acidity. Look for the 2001 if you have the option.

Reds:
2005 Malartic Lagriviere Bordeaux: very well balanced and appealing, slightly green aftertaste but doesn't kill the experience. This was really a great bottle, which I had more notes!
2003 Sarget de Gruaud Larose: Second wine from a famous chateau. Light ruby, very appealing nose, and perfectly balanced on the palate with a great mouthfeel.
2000 La Mouline: All I had to say about this one was "funky tree fruit taste." Yikes.
2001 Fonbadet Paulliac: A not bad wine with flavors of tobacco and cranberry. Very dry.
2002 Leoville Poyferre: What started out as a great wine ended with a stewed tomato finish. Not a good thing, but could have been the bottle. Is that a trend tonight from the bottles that were overnighted from NYC moments before?
2003 Pontet Canet: Another contended for wine of the evening. This had a big nose , great mouthfeel, and powerful finish. Don't miss it!
2006 Barons de Benjamin Rothschild: Very tannic but still smooth on the way down, these wines are always a good value.
2005 Le Crock: Nothing special. Pretty light for the vintage and poor for the price.
2005 Fleur Jonquet: Light wine, strawberry and earth flavors, nothing special but nice.

Goose Bay
This is a New Zealand winery that I have admittedly not paid much (any) attention too. Whoops! I have been missing out on some great bottles of wine. Very impressive as far as I am concerned.
2008 Sauvignon Blanc: Medium bodied, great flavors and balance, and a zesty, tingly acidity.
2007 Pinot Gris: Just the slightest hint of residual sugar, but very pleasant and a little less astringency than the above.
2007 Chardonnay: Strong but not overpowering flavors of citrus, no oak, and very refreshing.
2007 Pinot Noir: Very light color, gentle fruit flavors, with oak and earth. I wouldn't call this wine complex, but it certainly is drinkable.

Herzog
Admittedly I didn't spend too much time at this table, but I wanted to try a few of the limited edition Cabernets that I did not see myself purchasing for my own consumption. There was definitely a lot of traffic at this table, and good for them, as the wines are pretty good.
2007 Clone 6 Cabernet: This was purported to be the holy grail of wine. Anyway, I thought it was ok, nothing special. I would take the Alexander Valley Cabernet over this one any day.
2007 Atlas Peak Haystack Vineyard: This wine had an exotic smell and a subtle medium body. I really did enjoy it and found it to be different that the Herzog style that I had seen up until then. Probably the best out of the super limited releases.
2006 Generation To-Kalon: This is made from really, really expensive grapes. Like buying the most expensive organic produce from Whole Foods or the like. Anyway, I wasn't tickled by this wine and consequently didn't write too much down. Plus at $160+ per bottle, it's an easy pass.

Yatir
This is a small winery in the Judean Hills (and North Negev?) that specializes in small production and absolutely delicious wine. They've been around for almost a decade and have consistently produced excellent, but pricey, wine. That said, if you're looking for a sure thing, Yatir is almost guaranteed never to disappoint.
2007 Sauvignon Blanc: Light golden color, well balanced, and a hint of sweetness. This is an excellent white wine! A little on the pricey side, but I can't imagine they made too much of it. Anyway, worth a shot if you can find it.
2005 Cabernet-Merlot-Shiraz: Very approachable with soft tannins and pleasant fruit and earth flavors. Drink now for a new more years. 2005 was a good year for this winery in my opinion.
2006 Forest: This is the flagship super-cuvee from Yatir. I found this vintage to be a little lighter in style than I would have expected for the price, with light tannins, and some unexciting astringency. Probably needs some time; these wines hold on for a while.
2005 Forest: A different beast! Much richer fruit and fuller body. I really enjoyed this one. Find it before the 2006 takes over.

Friday, December 25, 2009

Chateau de Parsac

I think I've found my new favorite wine. I might be biased as I prefer Bordeaux to most other regions, but this one is truly special. It's about 80% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc. Very intense for the price point; no weird flavors of "skunk and funk" that I usually associate with cheap Merlot. Actually, there is kosher Merlot from France for a few dollars less, and the quality disparity is enormous. The wine is silky and aromatic, well balanced and drinkable, and unbelievably mevushal. Leave it to the Rothschild group to figure this one out. I tried the 2007 which I believe is the most current release. Might be able to age for a few years but this is made to be slurped right up. Enjoy!

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Four Gates Winery

After hearing enough about the winery, I finally called up to place my order. I was then engaged in a half hour conversation about wine making, the effect of oak, blending across vintages, and other interesting topics. Binyomin Cantz is a fascinating individual who, in his words, has three jobs: farmer, vintner, and salesman. I ordered three wines; the 2006 Merlot 'La Rochelle,' the 2006 Cabernet Franc, and the 2007 Chardonnay.

Tonight, over a plate of Celebrity brand Chevre, Chevington's Red Leicester, walnuts, and cranberries, we enjoyed the 2006 Merlot "La Rochelle.' I'm not sure if this is a vineyard designate or just the name of a companion. Anyway, the wine is very dark and opened with a strong bouquet of... oak. There wasn't much noticeable fruit for the first half hour or so as this wine took a long time to open up. It was very tannic on the palate and didn't yield an inch of its essence until much swirling and sloshing later on. Finally, after waiting an hour and filling the glass with a steady pour right into the wine (to mimic the effect of decanting) the wine finally opened up to some wonderful dark fruit flavors to balance out the still formidable but not overwhelming oak flavors. This wine is very concentrated and still extremely tannic and moderately acidic (this is three hours out already), which means there is only a wonderful long life ahead of it.

All in all, I'd say this is a wine to revisit in a year or so after some of the intensity wears off. I probably would have guessed this wine was a Cabernet Sauvignon if I was tasting it blind because of the dark, rich flavors as opposed to the more aromatic, milk chocolate overtones that I associate with Merlot. Anyway, a great experience, and a wine to try again. Only available directly from the winery.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

2004 Vintage -- A World Apart

I was recently able to taste two wines from the 2004 vintage which are literally a world apart. While the 04 was a great vintage here in California, other regions tended to have their issues with ripeness. While both wines were good, it was a great opportunity to compare vintages across regions.

2004 Weinstock Zinfandel, Lodi -- Dark colored wine with no signs of aging, a wonderful and powerful bouquet of cranberry, raisin, and milk chocolate. Surprisingly plush for a Zinfandel, but still has the spicy kick that makes the varietal a favorite with strong food. A little more tame than last time I tried it a year ago.

2004 Yatir Yiron Blend, Galilee -- Pleasant aromas of raspberry, but also has some mild green pepper notes. Lighter on the palate and far from tannic, this wine is pleasant and has considerably less residual sugar than the 2003 (and, maybe coincidentally, less Syrah in the blend).

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Top Flight Selections Tasting


Recently I decided to spoil the clients (and of course myself) by popping six higher end bottles of wine and doing some rounds of tastings.

After very thorough analysis, purple tongues, and blurry vision, here are the results:

2007 Yarden, Chardonnay, Odem Vineyard: opened very toasty and dry, with a citrus rind and bitter aroma. This put people off right away. Later, the wine opened up a little bit and had nice citrus aromas and nectarine as well, and a pleasant sweet aroma. Then the pear shined through and the original toastiness of the wine rejoined us, making a very enjoyable and balanced Chardonnay.

2002 Chateau Montviel, Pomerol: This is a wine I previously reviewed a few months back and I decided to revisit it for the tasting. It was surprisingly darker than I remembered it to be; this bottle didn't have much of the bright ruby coloring of the previous one but was a little darker and more put together. The wine is very smooth and the tannins are just strong enough to keep you from gulping the glass down in one shot. A very enjoyable Bordeaux and one of the stars of the evening.

2005 Yatir Cabernet Sauvignon, Judean Hills (South): This wine was thoroughly enjoyed by all the texture and mouthfeel junkies. The wine is very full bodied and tannic. Herbal flavors that were present when the bottle was opened were still present later in the form of sage and eucalyptus notes. But as strong as the wine was, the velvety feel makes this wine drinkable even today. Some of the other participants thought this was too hot to handle in terms of the tannins and acidity, but that could be due to the mature, elegant wine that preceded it. This is the middle tier wine from Yatir- above the CMS blend and below the Forest super cuvee.

2004 Yarden Merlot, Ortal Yineyard: This wine had some very exciting aromas coming out the bottle soon after we opened it. Definitely present was the trademark (in my opinion) Yarden Merlot aroma of Grand Marnier; some warm, citrusy element that I can't identify more accurately than that. Other flavors were raspberry and other berries, crushed rocks (yes they have a smell), and a heavy but not overbearing cedar/oaky flavor. I think this wine is very enjoyable now but would be curious what 4 years has in store for it.

2006 Domaine du Castel, Grand Vin, Haute Judee: Quite an elegant wine from a producer that typically makes very "big" wines. The color wasn't too dark; almost a medium ruby color that wasn't very bright at all. The nose featured fantastic aromas of flowers, liqueur, and more of a pine smell. The wine wasn't too tannic and went down very smoothly, but reflected a finesse that the other wines that evening did not possess. One interesting note is that we were able to pinpoint a taste descriptor for the wine's aftertaste: Guinness! How about that- try a nice wine and get a beer taste for free. Not a bad thing since the Guinness description lines up with the floral elements mentioned above. I would drink this wine now since I don't see it being the most long lived of Grand Vin releases. This wine is classy, simply put.

2004 Yarden Syrah, Ortal Vineyard: We had great expectations for this wine and were not disappointed. It was dubbed "perhaps the best Syrah in Israel" so of course we had to try it. This wine had an intense aroma of flowers, chocolate covered raisins, vanilla cookies, toasted oak, and other port like aromas. I don't think I have ever come up with this many aromas and descriptors from one bottle of wine like this. The wine is thick and black and is palate coating to say the least. Strong and concentrated, this wine isn't for everyone. It might be best to let it cool off for a year or two in the cellar, just to give it more time to come together. But, you might lose some of the intensity factor that is so evident right now. A wonderful selection and a wine for the cellar!

Monday, September 7, 2009

Holiday Wine Ideas

Based on some recent tastings, here's what I think would be good for the holiday festivities. I've sorted them by price point, starting with the most affordable.

Barkan Merlot, Israel: Good basic wine, comes in more varieties than just Merlot for those who haven't gotten over Sideways! Great with food, try it with chicken.
W by Weinstock, California: This entry level wine steals the thunder from the memories of great Napa cabernets made by Weinstock in the past. While I have only tried their Rose (fantastic), I have heard that the red and white blends are equally as good.
Baron Herzog Chenin Blanc, California: Quick and easy white, best served cold. This goes with pretty much anything as you will drink it too quickly to notice! And at $7 per bottle, it's almost a no-brainer.
Ramon Cordova Rioja, Spain: Moving into the teens in terms of pricing, this is a full bodied red that tastes much more expensive. Very juicy and fruity, this wine requires bold cuisine like hearty stews or grilled meats.
Yarden Chardonnay 'Odem' Organic Vineyard, Israel: This is one of the top Chardonnays in Israel. When I tried it at the winery, I was very impressed, and recent vintages have been very well received as well.
Galil Yiron Red Blend, Israel: This wine has been well reviewed by the Wine Advocate, a leading wine publication, and has received 90+ point scores in the last several vintages. The wine is very aromatic and easy to drink. Should complement most cuisine and is a great deal under $25.
Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon, Israel: This is one of the most famous wines to come out of Israel. Dark and fruity, the wine is built to age but is always enjoyable. Always a treat.
Flechas de Los Andes Malbec, Argentina: See the review below. This is an exciting wine!