Back Vintages of Late Harvest Chenin Blanc

I was fortunate to try two back vintages of Herzog Late Harvest Chenin Blanc, side by side, at the Tierra Sur restaurant in Oxnard, CA. I had the 2004 and the 2005, which is one of my favorite dessert wines of all time. The colors are similar; both still a pale yellow, without any deep yellow or gold tones. But the noses are remarkably different: the 2004 is fresher and has massive aromas of fresh Fuji apple and some floral notes, while the 2005 is all honey with tropical fruit. I have had both of these wines before, but tasting them side by side helps one appreciate the importance of vintage, and the effect of time on the bottle. 2005 was a much hotter year in California, and while 2004 was a more even, successful vintage overall (especially for California Cabernet), this might not have been conducive to the over-ripening of the Chenin Blanc. Anyway, if you see these older bottles anywhere, grab them. And save some for me.

2004 Baron Herzog Late Harvest Chenin Blanc: still a pale yellow, fresh fruit notes, very pleasant but not overly sweet or sticky. Would pair nicely with a fruit tart or just fresh fruit with nuts and goat cheese. Very nice.

2005 Baron Herzog Late Harvest Chenin Blanc: this wine is also pale, but has powerful sweet aromas of honey, pineapple, and a little spice/funk (which could indicate botrytis, the Noble Rot). Rich, thick, and heavy, you have to respect this wine for its intensity. It would pair very nicely with almond tarts or rich double or triple cream Brie. Might even be able to stand up to some light chocolate desserts too.

Two Bordeaux from the 2002 Vintage

I was fortunate to have enjoyed two very special, rare Bordeaux from the generally unremarkable 2002 vintage. This was a special learning experience: since the miserable weather in Bordeaux was on both sides of the river, it allows an apples to apples comparison of the region's different styles of wine. For those who aren't Bordeaux experts, the region is split into several parts, but the biggest distinction is between the Left Bank, which is Cabernet dominated, and the Right Bank, which is Merlot dominated. Sometimes the weather is great on one side and not the other, so you can have a great year for the left and bad for the right, and vice versa. Since Merlot is usually picked earlier in the season than Cabernet, a late harvest rain storm can destroy the Cab while the Merlot is already fermenting. You get the idea.

Anyway, the wines were a 2002 Pontet Canet (Pauillac) and a 2002 Chateau Montviel (Pomerol). These are both made by companies that produce mainly non kosher wine, with a special batch set aside for the kosher consumer. The wines get mostly the same treatment. Both wines were very classy and elegant. Each represented its respective region; the Pontet Canet was darker and had tar/graphite notes, while the Montviel was smooth and very approachable. These are two wines that are not to be missed! Check them out.

2002 Chateau Pontet-Canet, Pauillac: Wonderful aromas of cranberry, tobacco, and graphite. Great balance between the earthiness and fruit. You can tell that there is a nice amount of Cabernet in this wine. Still a little tannic, but much better than it was when I tried it over a year ago. Definitely drinkable now, and will go for another 9+ years. A great surprise.

2002 Chateau Montviel, Pomerol: This wine is made by the producers of Ch. Le Gay and others in Pomerol. Delicious aromas of strawberry, milk chocolate, and the slightest bit of espresso. A touch of earthiness but nothing green and unappealing. The texture of this wine is worth the price of admission; it's very smooth and velvety. Drink now and for another five years, when the light ruby color of this wine will gradually fade to an orangy brick.

Passover Wines Part 2

Continuing the festival, here are some more comments:
2005 Psagot Edom Blend - Jerusalem Hills: This wine tastes like it contains more Merlot that it really does, with great juiciness and fresh berry flavors. Very light on the oak, which I appreciated, but a touch too sweet for my palate. Everyone else was over the moon for it though. Definately a good "new world" wine from an ancient region.
2004 Eagle's Landing Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa: This is supposed to be a special project wine from Joe Hurliman, winemaker at Baron Herzog. There is no appellation or vineyard specified, just the general Napa designation. The wine still resembles the over-oaked Herzog style, which I can't relate to. While not mevushal, it still tastes a little dull.
2005 Baron Herzog Merlot- Central Coast: Pleasant cocoa and berry notes, but a little watery and unexciting. These entry levels should usually be enjoyed within three years of vintage label. I enjoyed the 2004 a while back, but have not tried the 2006.
2006 Baron Herzog Old Vine Zinfandel - Lodi: Still light and enjoyable, definately a crowd pleaser.

Passover Wines Update

Between two seders, Shabbos, and the rest of the holiday, one tends to move through quite a bit of wine. Even though most of the wine is relatively inexpensive (since it is enjoyed in quantity), you don't always run into noteworthy bottles. But we were sure to source out a few gems to brighten up the festivities. Even the cheap wines deserve a review! In no particular order:

2008 Bartenura Malvasia: Pleasant, fruity, mild berry flavors. Not as sweet as it has been in vintages past, which may be a good thing for some people. Serve it cold and try to avoid decanting since you will sacrfice some of the bubbles.
2008 Baron Herzog White Zinfandel: Man, I was pretty upset about this wine. After all my efforts to specifically source the newest vintage, the wine was a real dud. It's a very pale pink this year, and has more grapefruit flavors than the sweet berry and candy notes that are usually prevalent. The change to a lighter style was not welcome by my guests. See, there are distinctions to be made, even when talking about White Zin!
2005 Mt Tabor Sauvignon Blanc: Again, this wine is showing well and really needs food to balance out the strong flavors. We had it with poached Salmon with dill sauce, and it was a nice pairing to the richness of the fish. The acidity also cleaned out the fish taste at the end of the course. And yes, there is acidity in this wine, even though it's a 2005.
2002 Cheval-Brun, St. Emilion, Bordeaux: This is a very expensive wine, and I should have let it breathe for longer before pouring, but oh well. It was not showing well and had green flavors of olive and bell pepper. Anyway, since it's so expensive, I'm sure it isn't as unexciting as it appeared to be, so we'll give it another whirl sometime when I can use the decanter, etc.
2007 Baron Herzog Chenin Blanc Late Harvest: Very light this year, with more tree fruit flavors than tropical and honey. Enjoyable with fresh berries and ice cream, but it will probably get better over time. I still think the 2005 was the best I've had out of the 2004, 2005, 2006, and 2007.
2006 Baron Herzog Late Harvest Zinfandel: Also light, cherry flavors, slightly medicinal. This wine really isn't my thing, but the people at the meal were enjoying bottle after bottle. This reminds me that just because I don't like something, doesn't make it bad!
2001 Chateau Piada Sauternes: mild aromas of apricot jam with rind and candied grapefruits on the palate. A little bit of botrytis was evident, but the wine was a little funky as a result of improper storage. I would need another bottle to make a real judgment about this wine, but I'm also really picky when it comes to Sauternes (white Bordeaux dessert wine).

Wedding Wine Tasting

Any time you have the occasion to sit around with friends and open, say, a case and a half of wine, it's an opportunity not to be missed. In honor of the wedding of our friends Aaron and Jesica, I picked out over a dozen wines that were in the under $15 category and the best value for the money. There were some big surprises! Snacks included cheddar cheese, herbed cream cheese spread, 'Breton' and Cabaret' crackers, strawberries, and 'Samoa' Girl Scout cookies. All the wines listed below are mevushal.

We started with the Whites:
2007 Herzog Chateneuf White Bordeaux: This is a semi dry wine that is made of Semillon and Muscadelle grapes. It is light and refreshing, crisp, with sweet pear and honey flavors. Very pleasant and easy to drink.
2008 Hagafen Sauvignon Blanc, Napa: This is a very exciting bottle of wine. In your face aromas of nectarine and grapefruit rind. Very fresh on the palate and leaves you wanting another sip. Some people didn't like the rind flavors but it was enjoyed by others.
2005 Mt. Tabor Sauvignon Blanc, Israel: This was much drier than the Hagafen, also plenty of rind flavors and a mild smoke element. The people who didn't like the Hagafen liked this one. A little fluffier as well.
2003 Mt. Tabor Chardonnay, Israel: This was kind of a wildcard wine. More mature flavors and a complexity that didn't work for everyone but would certainly be more enjoyable with roast chicken or a rich pasta with pesto. Serve it cold.
2007 Baron Herzog Chenin Blanc: I've always loved this wine. So fruity, so easy, so smooth. The mild sugar element was a bit to much when you are trying to please a crowd who is used to non-kosher wine. Still a winner though.
2006 Baron Herzog Chardonnay: Another quality bottle of wine! Classic chardonnay green apple and citrus flavors, a little creamy, and reasonably full bodied. This a wine that formed the greatest consensus.
2007 Bartenura Pinot Grigio: not that exciting, kind of dull for the vintage, maybe the 2008 will be better?
2007 Hagafen Riesling Lake County (Organic): Great honey and pineapple aromas. Sweet on the palate, but I was looking for more acidity. Another favorite of the tasting, since it would complement some of the cuisine that will be served at the wedding.


Result: Baron Herzog Chardonnay, Hagafen Riesling, Hagafen Sauvignon Blanc.

Moving to the Reds:
2007 Segal's Fusion, Israel: This was a surprise for me. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. Bright, bright ruby and beautiful floral and sweet berry aromas. Fresh and flavorful on the palate, no noticeable oak, very drinkable. And a killer value at under $10.
2005 Barkan Merlot, Israel: Another pleasant wine, very simple but elegant. Smooth and enjoyable without that cheap Merlot funk. Definately had some consensus behind it.
2005 Moulin de Noalliac: This is a good Bordeaux, but was showing poorly. I think the bottle was bad since it had some very sinister aromas.
2004 Mt. Tabor Merlot, Israel: A personal favorite, this is a very smooth Merlot that you could mistake for a Cab-Merlot Blend. Nice flavors, a hint of oak, and pretty mellow since it has some bottle age.
2004 Mt. Tabor Cabernet Sauvignon, Israel: A respectable bottle of wine with typical Cabernet flavors and a good backbone. I prefer the Merlot.
2006 Baron Herzog 'Old Vines' Zinfandel: This is a big, bad, bold wine. Grapey flavors, earthiness, and spice. This showed very well and developed quite a following. Needs to be paired with bold cuisine to balance it out.
2007 Ramon Cardova Rioja: Another powerful wine, this is bright purple with incredible aromatics. Very energetic and inky. If you haven't tried Rioja before, this is a good place to get started. Candied strawberries and flowers are all over the place with a little spiced kick. Might not work for everyone, but no one could deny that it was good.

Result: Barkan Merlot, Baron Herzog Zin, Cardova Rioja.

2002 Yarden Syrah...Festival of Deliciousness

Finally was able to take the time to open this bottle and re-taste it after not having had it for quite some time. From my experience, the 2002 vintage in Israel was quite good-- I tried the Castel lineup back then when they were first making the transition to kosher, and I still am keeping a bottle for later on. The Yarden 2002 Cabernet, which I've had plenty of times, has also been good to me.

But this bottle is my secret. The Yarden Syrah is probably better than the Cab in some respects. The Yarden Cabernet can sometimes produce some weird green pepper flavors and a certain rubber flavor that doesn't always agree with me (not evident in the 2004, which I enjoyed more than the 2003). The Syrah is all class. Elegent aromas of coffee and chocolate right out of the glass, after about an hour of sitting on the counter breathing. It almost smells like Cabernet, but has a certain perfume element that makes it more unique. Also some nice peppery notes on the finish. Yeah, this is some good Syrah. It might be worthwhile to track down some of their single vineyard stuff to find out if it's really worth the extra bucks. But at $19 or so, this wine is a no brainer to me. Should be good for another couples years, too.